Titlebook: Operational Analysis and Prediction of Ocean Wind Waves; M. L. Khandekar Book 1989 Springer-Verlag New York, Inc. 1989 Climatology.Coast.M

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Introduction,n. At present, spectral wave models based ori the energy balance equation of a wave field are used in operational modes in many areas of world oceans. Several theoretical and observational studies over the last forty years have provided a reasonable quantitative formulation of the various source ter

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Wave Generation, Propagation and Dissipation,storical past, the Greek philosopher Aristotle (384–322 B.C.) recognized the importance of wind on wave generation while the Italian naturalist and historian Pliny (Pliny the Elder, 23–79 A.D.) observed the sobering effect of an oil layer on the surface water waves. The versatile Leonardo da Vinci m

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Wave Prediction: Early Wave Prediction Techniques,s work was reported during this time. This lack of interest (or progress) in operational wave analysis may have been due to two reasons: First, systematic ocean wave observations and recording was a difficult and an expensive operation and, second, ocean waves are too untidy to be mathematically att

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Wave Prediction: Spectral Models,sity of the wave field described as a function of frequency f, direction θ, position x? and time t; c. is the group velocity of the wave field in deep water and S is the source function representing the physical processes that transfer energy to and from the wave spectrum. The source function S can

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Wave Prediction in Shallow Water, scientific interest in the problem of shallow-water wave prediction has increased because of generally increased knowledge about wave generation, improved meteorological and oceano-graphical database and the availability of bigger and better computer facilities to handle the mathematical and numeri

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Wave Analysis: Operations and Applications, location or over a given area. The term sea-state forecasting refers to forecasting of waves and swells over the sea. According to Britton(1981), sea-state forecasting is an operational problem requiring the use of practical relationships between the atmosphere and the ocean. The Bretschneider nomo

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Summary and Future Outlook,alysis and wave prediction services that have been developed in many countries. A number of wave prediction models reported in recent literature has been summarized in this monograph; these models are presently used in research or operational modes in different parts of the world. The earlier Chapte